Grab The Labels and Create Your Own AntiPills!

Purchase and Download an AntiPills Label of your choice, or grab this FREE TEST LABEL which is exactly the same size as all of the AntiPills labels for sale. Click the Link above or the Image of "Test Man" and use "Right-Click, Save-as" to get your Test Label copy when it finishes loading up in your browser.

Hang onto your file for later printing. It's likely going to need re-sizing, but that's not a big deal 'cause you can do it online for FREE these days. (Google Search: Image Resizer) A handy tip : Create a few "Back-Up" copies of your Label Files and put them somewhere Safe. ( Perhaps burn them onto a dvd and maybe upload copies to your personal favorite "cloud" vault) Why play around with resizing by using the one, original file? That's Crazy Talk!

This is the label size of your download: Height: 1050 pixels which is also 3-1/2 inches and also equals 8.89cm. Width: 2700 pixels which is also 9 inches and also equals 22.86cm Print resolution: 300 dpi - - The resolution of an image refers to the density of the printed dots that make up that image or graphic. The higher the resolution, the crisper and more detailed the image will be.

300 dpi (dots per inch) is photographic, or "magazine" quality. In a way, it's almost Over-Kill for these labels, since they’ve had filters and effects applied to make them look distressed and aged. But . . . you may as well have a nice, information-rich graphic to start with, because the picture will need to be re-sized to fit YOUR Bottle.

I could not BEGIN to guess how many ways you could find containers for your AntiPills label... ...but the simplest place to start is by having a look in your own kitchen or pantry. Does it need to match the official "AntiPills" bottle size exactly? Of course not. It just needs to be roughly close in its proportions. Likely candidates would include Jam Jars, Pickle Jars . . Peanut Butter tubs etc. The bottom line is . . . only YOU will know what size container you would be happy with.

"But Anim5! I want to use the EXACT same bottles YOU use, so I don't have to re-size my labels at all!" No problem! If you can order from ULINE and get those bottles shipped to you, You're all set. Here's the exact amber jar I use to make the AntiPills when I send out orders: ( Click the Bottle ).

Amber Wide-Mouth Glass Jars - 16 oz ULINE - Item Number S-20592 Store tablets, powders and light-sensitive materials. Wide mouth for easy access to contents. Phenolic black caps included. FDA compliant.

If the edges DO overlap, then mark off where the end of the paper touches, and then give yourself about a thumb-width gap ( no need for rocket science accuracy here, seriously ) and draw a straight line vertically. Cut the paper along that line and Voila! This is your Test-Label size!

Let's imagine your folded test paper measurement is 4-3/8 inches high by 11 inches wide. First thing to do is some "rounding off". Why make this harder? I'll call it 4 inches by 10-3/4 inches ( 4 x 10.75 if some paint program asks ) I don't want to resize my image to 11 inches, 'cause that's too wide to PRINT on. 10-3/4" at least allows 1/4inch (0.635 cm) before the edge of the paper.

(Nobody is going to take a micrometer to this and hit me with a fish if I don't print EXACT measurements. There are , doubtless so many, many better reasons to hit me with a fish.) "Close enough" actually WORKS for a comedy item. And remember, this is a TEST. You can print as many shapes or sizes as you feel you need to on any number of bottles or Jars until you find the sizes that are just right. So . . .You'll need to open up a copy of your label image and re-size it to the dimensions you came up with using your container.

1. Do a google search for " Image Resizer " and check out the various online applications you can use to upload the file, re-size it, and download it again. (Snoozefest of stuff you don't need to know below this line.) Look for one that let's you save your result at 300dpi in the .PNG ( portable network graphic ) format. PNG is not perfect for Print, but it is a lossless image compression format and it won't degrade a picture as fast as the .JPG format will after a lot of editing and re-saving. If you run into a site that asks for "Pixels" as a measurement, no worries. There are a bunch of online pages that will do those calculations for you as well. Google search: "inches to pixels" or "centimeters to pixels", and they'll pop up like prairie dogs on pixie stix.

2. If you don't already have one, Download a FREE graphics program from your favorite trusted freeware site, install that and re-size the image on your own machine. Google Search: "Paint.net" - A very good, free paint program. Simple and easy to use. Another place to look for free and simple image re-sizers is CNET Downloads. Being able to use your own program for this means you get more skills and you unlock the... "Anim5 must think no one knows how to do this stuff but him. Who does he think he's talking to?" ...achievement. 😀

3. Turn to your friend who's good with these sorts of things and say . . . Hey! " If you re-size this file of mine - I'll give you a Trillion Billion Diamonds, a Captured Unicorn Soul, a Space Ship and . . . TWO metal cans of 12-year-old spackle putty that I found rusting in my garage! For Realz! "

You don't have to have the highest quality paper available, but I use 100% Recycled Multi-purpose Paper. 24-lb. stock. It's thicker than low-budget copy paper. Set your Print orientation to "landscape". Print the label out at "Normal" quality. (That's what I do. When I try printing at 300dpi on my little HP inkjet, the thing throws agony fits and I get "banding" lines. So I print the pics out at 150dpi "normal" quality and they turn out just fine.) Another Tip: If you're handy enough with your graphics program, and your final label size allows it, try putting two labels on the same sheet. It will save time and paper.

After waiting about ten minutes for the ink to dry completely, I hit the print with a couple of sweeping shots of high-quality hairspray as a fixative. This may be an optional step for you depending on the quality of your printer. But I've found it helps keep my print from streaking or smearing when I brush on the sealant. A light, even coat of high-quality hairspray prevents this. ( I recommend high-quality hairspray because cheap hairspray does not "mist" well. It has a poorer chemical binder and a more caustic carrier/solvent. You may even end up with a 'spatter' pattern of discoloration on your print rather than a smooth initial sealing coat. Do yourself a favor and get quality hairspray for this if you're going to try it.)

Next, make the label more durable and water resistant by applying the sealer. I use a popular "scrap-booking" sealant called 'ModPodge'. It's non-toxic, water-based and it won't make your AntiPills bottle smell like a furniture repair shop or gas station the way oil-based or polyurethane based sealers will. ( I've done many home-made gifts over many years . . and the MOST embarrassing ones are the projects that smell like "Pine Goo" when they're unwrapped. Don't use oil or polyurethane sealers for this. The gloss and protection may be grand, but if you have to wait 6 months for your Bottles to stop stinking . . . It's just not worth it! )

I prefer the Matte finish version of Modpodge, but you may want to try the Glossy finish version just to see if you like it better. Or . . . You may have a scrap-booking paper sealer that you SWEAR by and use all the time that I've never heard of. 🙂 Use that then, obviously. And please send me a note about what it is. Brush on a single, thin coat of Modpodge, or your clear-drying paper sealant of choice, and let the Label sit for an hour. ( I let the Label sit overnight to cure and dry thoroughly, but I don't think you have to really wait that long ). Next, Do the same on the reverse side. ( Yes . . . coat both sides. You'll be using Rubber Cement to glue the Label to your container . . . and Rubber Cement can leach into your printed image from the back causing a "bleach" effect if the paper isn't sealed. I found that out the hard way.)

I use Rubber Cement. Rubber Cement has a very strong odor and should only be used in a well-ventilated area. Its disadvantage is the strong and possibly Dizzying smell. ( If you can, get a fan blowing on you when you use this stuff.) Its advantage is that you don't have to work fast with it and it adheres paper to glass or plastic like a champ!

Grab the top of your container and brush a single THIN coat of rubber cement all the way around the outside of the jar or bottle. Try to brush a little past where you know the label is going to be positioned... be wide and sloppy with it! This is part of what will take care of the edges . . . you'll see. Next, a THIN coat of rubber cement for the entire back of the Label also. Be sure you get some on the edges all the way around. ( Brush PAST the edges onto the wax paper ) Now.... wait about 5 minutes. ( You could actually wait for an hour if you needed to... this stuff would still work.)

Tip for Getting the label on pretty close to STRAIGHT : Look for items you can use that will stack next to your bottle and remain flat. I use thin CD jewel cases. Stack them next to your container so that a single pile comes up to the point on the container where the bottom edge of the label should be.

You should now have a thin line behind the "Portrait" segment of your label adhered to your container. At this point, it's all over but the "smoothing". Set your thumb against the portrait and gently, but firmly sweep it back and forth over the Label, letting it wrap and fall and follow the curve of the container all by itself. When you reach the edge, leave it and smooth the other half of the label down. Now return to the edges of the Label and smooth your thumb out onto the glass or plastic.

You'll find that the dried Rubber Cement there, bunches up into stringy, dry crumbly bits. Set the Container aside for another five minutes or so. When you come back to it, you can firmly smudge your thumb out and away from the label's edges, clearing the glass or plastic of the glue. The Rubber Cement has dried more thoroughly where it was exposed to air . . . and the resulting "Crumbs" can be easily brushed off. Give the Bottle or Jar a light once-over with a cloth or paper towel, Unscrew the top, fill it with some candy. Smile.

This is the part where I ask you to do the right thing and not be a "Villain". Help AntiPills stay alive as a source for new labels in the future. Fun Facts! : The completion of each AntiPills Label from original idea to written copy to graphics creation and layout takes between 12 and 16 hours of work per label. New Jersey Minimum Wage as of 2015 was $8.38 an hour. A label that took me 16 hours to create from idea to downloadable file would cost $134.08 at NJ Minimum Wage.

I'm only asking for $1.00 per label file. Once you have THAT you can print out hundreds of them for your own use. I think that's quite a bit more than reasonable.

I'm fully aware of how easy it will be for you to pass out these digital label files like candy among your closest friends. I'm just asking you not to.

Rather than giving away copies of the label files you download, please send your friends the link to AntiPills.com instead. That way they can buy and download the labels they choose and I can pay for the site hosting and come up with lots more new comic labels. ( And if you happen to be someone who received an AntiPills label from a well-meaning friend . . . Nothing prevents you from stopping by my site and buying your own copy. It will make your bottles and jars more fun to look at through Clear Karma Goggles.)

I hope you DO! That would be Fantastic! Take pictures of your booth and send'em along! If I lived anywhere near fairs or markets that were held regularly, I'd be doing it myself 🙂 but, again . . . PLEASE leave my label content intact, especially the ingestion warning and site URL www.antipills.com It's the only "credit the artist" notation I ask for.

"But Anim! What if I want to make LOTS of jars and bottles and sell them at my local flea-market or craft fair?" Go for it! 🙂

Take Video! Don't simply display the bottles. Perform them! Please send me a copy! Selling bottles you've made yourself at local fairs or shops does not compete with me in any significant way, and you would be doing me the added favor of spreading the word about this site! 🙂

Online selling of AntiPills bottles and Label Files actually DOES compete directly with me using my own product, so . .please don't do that. I'd have to retain a law firm and send a "cease and desist". It would get all expensive and ugly and unhappy, why bother? However . . .

" Can I make AntiPills Bottles with your labels, and sell them online from my own site? Or on Amazon or Etsy? or Craigslist?" No.

What I WOULD recommend . . is that you run with the idea of selling Original Faux-Vintage labels and bottles, but use Your Own words and Designs. THAT would be very cool! If you're a graphics design PRO you could rock out WAY better labels than mine! If you do that Send me the Link to your site once you're up and running... and I'll post your link on my site when I see my link on your site. Win/Win !